Increasingly more gardeners, landscape architects and reclamation officials are discovering the inherent beauty and amazing utility of our native and wild grasses. The more ornamental varieties can be treated like perennial wildflowers and by keeping in mind varying heights, texture and colors, results can be spectacular! Taller grasses are being used as borders along walkways, as dividers and backgrounds or as accents in flower gardens.
Wild, sod-forming grasses are increasingly valuable as low-maintenance, drought tolerant substitutes for the traditional lawn. They offer the option of remaining unmowed to create natural looking "meadow" transitions between manicured lawns and untouched surroundings.
A number of grasses are preferred for erosion control because of their massive roots systems and ability to survive the harsh extremes of western weather. Our research shows that laying a base with the proper grass is the easiest and least expensive method to control weeds and set the stage for a natural succession which naturally evolves to include shrubs and flowers.
We have learned much in the last eighteen years from approximately 400 projects involving the planting of grasses. We find that understanding some basic concepts and definitions before planting native and wild grasses is the best way to insure success.

DEFINITIONS

Bunch Grass: Grows to form separate, independent clumps when left unattended in the wild. Bunches can be planted so closely together as to create tightly knit sod as in the case of hard or sheep fescue. Usually this requires supplemental water and occasional fertilizer.
Cold-Season: Green and growing during the cool parts of the growing season, spring and fall; dormant and dry during the hottest part of the summer. If watered and occasionally fertilized, cold-season grasses will remain green during the entire growing season. Their roots, however, stop growing during the hot summer. Fertilizer is best applied in the fall or early spring to take advantage of the times when the roots are active and growing.
Culm: The stem of grasses, sedges and rushes which supports the flowering parts of the plant.
Introduced: Those grasses previously brought from other continents, many of which are now naturalized in their "adopted" environment. Some are so common and widespread that they are mistaken as native as in the case of Kentucky bluegrass.
Native: Those grasses native to North America.
Rhizome: Horizontal stems growing mostly beneath the ground which can form new plants complete with roots.
Sod Grass: Grasses which spread to form a carpet-like turf.
Panicle: Main stem and branches containing the flowering parts (spikelets) of a grass plant.
Sedge: Grasslike plant often found in, but not limited to, wetland areas. Distinguished from grass most often by flowers, triangular leaves and culms. In fact, an old jingle, "sedges have edges", is true most of the time.
Stolon: A trailing shoot growing above the ground which forms at each node new plants complete with roots.
Warm-Season: Green and growing during the hottest part of the year; dormant and dry when cold in the spring, fall and winter. Usually recommended for the more southern latitudes where mid-summer temperatures make green lawns difficult. Warm-season grasses must be planted at least 2 months before first frost if they are going to survive winter.

AVAILABILITY

A wide range of native and wild grasses in all categories are now being sold by a growing number of seed companies. However, certain individual species have never been brought into commercial production and supplies are dependent upon seed gathered in the wild. Some commercial varieties are being produced by only one or two organizations and are often in short supply. Before deciding upon a specific list of grasses for your project, check for seed availability. Our experience tells us that availability is still one of the major factors determining the choice of grasses for many projects.

COST

Cost is often a determining factor in the choice of grass seeds. Cost limits for a project should be set before grass species are chosen. Once overall cost limits are set, planners can be flexible within the limits by choosing grasses that are more expensive or less expensive within each use category required. Idaho fescue, for example, can be replaced by one of the less expensive sheep fescues in many large, reclamation projects.

HEIGHT

Many new gardeners and landscapers are confused about the mature height of unmowed grasses. This is especially true for home landscapers who want a short, meadow look surrounding their property. Two different parts of a grass plant determine its height.
Depending upon which part is measured, different heights can be observed. Except for a short period during mid or late summer when flowers appear, the visible height of many grasses is determined by its leaves. The height of grasses as listed in most planting manuals and catalogs is based on the entire plant which includes the flowering parts, the culms and the panicles.
For example, the height of the leaves of sheep fescue and canadian bluegrass seldom reaches above 6 or 8 inches. Once a year, the culms and panicles for both can grow 12 -18" tall , the commonly listed height. Landscapers who understand this distinction, can use many more varieties where short grasses are required if cutting the culms once a year when mature is recommended.
The height of grasses is also determined by the fertility of the soil. Limit the height of grassy meadows by restricting fertilizer and water.

WEED CONTROL

Weeds should be "managed" rather than "eradicated". Before rushing out to destroy every weed in sight, remember that they can help prevent erosion and help keep soil moist. Certain weeds provide habitat for beneficial insects.
Minimize weeds by minimizing or preventing soil disturbance. Anytime soil is opened, tilled or turned it becomes vulnerable to invasion from new plants. Plants most often to appear first are what botanists call "pioneers". Unfortunately, most of the rest of us know them as the most troublesome weeds including thistle, mustard and mullein. We have successfully created grassy meadows out of scrubby sagebrush without disturbing the soil. The entire area was mowed to a height of 6". This killed the sagebrush which was easily removed over the years and allowed the wild grasses to dominate.
Rushing to plant grass seeds in the spring before weeds emerge is not always a successful strategy. If weed seed is in the soil (some varieties can be dormant for up to seven years), weeds can successfully out-compete new, young grasses. However, densely planted, established grasses will help prevent the germination of new weed seeds.
Ideally, weeds should be controlled before grasses are planted. We suggest when planting a newly disturbed area, waiting until the first crop of weeds has come up and been removed before sowing wildflower seeds. In some cases, we have seen a second and even a third crop of weeds that needed to be removed.
Although many chemical herbicides are on the market to control broad leaf weeds in established grasses, we do not recommend the use of chemicals unless as a last resort. We have been successful in our efforts to control weeds by simply mowing young stands of grass to a height of 6" or less. We have found that most native and wild grasses out-compete most weeds when mowed this short. One or two mowings for the first year or two is enough to purify most stands if done before weeds flower and go to seed.

SOIL

Most grasses survive in marginal soil with low-nitrogen content. Performance for most grasses is best in well-drained, composted, soils. Simply put, the better the soil, the better the stand of grass.
At high altitudes, soils reach their extremes and are inherently more fragile, more alkaline or more acidic and more deprived of organic matter than soil in more moderate climes. Top soil is often non-existent, or subject to rapid degradation by being exposed to severe wind and intense sun. We encourage gardeners to build up and care for soil by adding organic matter, by adding nutrients, by testing soil pH and by minimizing tillage.

WATER

As water resources become more scarce, wild grasses are destined to be more prevalent. Unless specifically adapted to wetland areas, most of the native and wild grasses that commonly populate the wild lands throughout the West are very drought-tolerant.
However, when planting grass seed, soil must be kept moist 3-4 weeks while germination takes place. Seeds must be kept moist during the fragile stage when they swell with water until the time when new little roots have grown deep enough to find soil moisture. Important: do NOT let the seeds dry out! This may require watering 2 to 4 times each day. Sunny, hot, windy days and sandy soil conditions may require a short watering, as often as every hour. (Note: Most automatic sprinkler systems can be adjusted to this demand.) Many landscape professionals recommend spring or fall planting when temperatures are cooler and grass seed is less likely to dry out between waterings.

PLANTING

Divide the area to be planted into a number of equal areas. (We draw lines in the soil with sticks.) Divide the seeds equally and place in separate bags. Using one bag for each area will prevent under-seeding some areas or over-seeding and running out before every area is planted. Lightly rake seeds so they are covered with approximately 1/2" of soil; or mulch with straw or compost. Note: we have seen no distinct advantage in germination using expensive hydro seeding techniques in areas that can be watered. Large areas planted without means of artificial watering are best drilled using special equipment.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

Incorporating grasses into formal yards and gardens is gaining popularity. Despite being among the most resilient, drought-tolerant and carefree plants in the West, many native and wild grasses are especially beautiful. They offer a wide range of colors, textures and heights to enhance most landscape schemes.
We are most proud of gardens arranged according to water needs as well as ascetics. This has decreased necessary maintenance as well as water usage. Our next trick is to treat grasses as we would flowers in an English cottage garden. Some are planted individually for contrast. Others are colonized to provide background texture. Great basin wildrye adds bright green to terra-cotta pots and Indian ricegrass is as pretty as any baby's breath. Our favorite ornamental grasses:

SHOWY BLOND PANICLES

Cereal Rye
Crested Wheatgrass
Siberian Wheatgrass
Reed Canarygrass

REDDISH COLORED GRASSES

Redtop
Smooth Brome

BLUISH COLORED GRASSES

Blue Fescue
Blue Wildrye
Streambank Wheat

LANDSCAPE GRASSES

Use of native and wild grass in home landscapes in the West has grown tremendously in the last few years, especially in areas where water has been in short supply. Drought tolerant grasses not only survive water shortages, once established, many flourish and remain very beautiful during periods of little or no water.
Also, ideas about home landscapes have changed as environmental awareness becomes more popular. Many families want a more "natural-looking" landscape as well as one easier on the planet's resources. Short, drought-tolerant, meadow-forming grasses like canadian bluegrass and sheep fescue have become favorites for new construction projects and remodels as well. Modern life-styles demand resilience and low maintenance. Grasses offer both.
Some families dispense with the traditional lawn altogether in favor of a meadow-look with flowers. Both canadian bluegrass and sheep fescue are flexible in that they can be mowed into lawns if needed. Our favorite home, landscape grasses are as follows:

DROUGHT-TOLERANT SOD FORMING GRASSES

Canadian Bluegrass
Red Fescue (shade tolerant)
Streambank Wheatgrass

DROUGHT-TOLERANT BUNCH GRASSES

Sheep Fescue
Hard Fescue
Canby Bluegrass
Sandberg Bluegrass
Siberian Wheatgrass

RECLAMATION GRASSES

Cost and availability are the most important factors governing the choice of grasses for large reclamation projects. Adaptability to specific environments, root growth for erosion control and ease to establish are other major factors considered. More and more wild grasses are being brought into commercial production which assures availability and lowers costs. Plan ahead and contract a year in advance if you want to assure availability and low cost. Some of the more popular reclamation grasses because of low cost and widespread availability are:

QUICK-GROWING EROSION CONTROL

Annual Ryegrass
Perennial Rygrass
Blue Wildrye

SALT AND ALKALAI TOLERANT

Tall Wheatgrass
Great Basin Wildrye
Nuttal Alkaligrass

DROUGHT TOLERANT EROSION CONTROL

Sheep Fescue
Canadian Bluegrass
Crested Wheatgrass
Streambank Wheatgrass

GRASS DESCRIPTIONS

alkaligrass, nuttal

Puccinellia airoides (P) Native, perennial, sod grass now cultivated commercially in Montana for difficult, wet, or occasionally flooded, salty sights. Use as forage for wild or domestic animals or as a valuable turf grass in locations where little else will grow.

bentgrass, colonial

Agrostis tenuis (P) Popular, golf course grass now used for reclamation in difficult, moist, acidic soils. This bunchgrass, introduced from Europe, with short stolons and occasional creeping rhizomes, tolerates poor soils and provides great forage for animals.

bluegrass, alpine

Poa alpinum (P) Short, densely-tufted, blue-green grass, native to sub-alpine and alpine meadows of the mountain west. If allowed to fill in over a number years, it produces short, carpet-like meadow. Perfect as a border for rock gardens or between wildflowers.

bluegrass, big

Poa ampla (P) Tall, native, vigorous, bunchgrass adapted to most well-drained locations in the Mountain West from moist meadows to high, rocky slopes. Does not tolerate clay. Stays green longer in the fall than most species and is favored by livestock and wildlife.

bluegrass, canadian

Poa compressa (P) Dependable, vigorous, pale gray-green sod-forming grass. Blades rarely reach above 8" tall. North American native adapted to poor, dry, shallow sites as well as shady, wet, clayey ones. Along with sheep fescue, this variety remains one of our most popular native grasses for the "uncut meadow look".

bluegrass, canby

Poa canbyi (P) Drought-tolerant, native bunchgrass adapted to a wide range of soil textures in the hills and mountains of the West. First to green in the spring and favored as early spring forage for wildlife and livestock. Will out-compete early-spring, annual weeds.

bluegrass, kentucky

Poa pratensis (P) Pratensis is Latin for meadow, a description of the preferred habitat for this widely-used native. Forms dense sod in well-drained, moist soils. Turns green early in the spring and remains green till late in the fall. Useful for reclamation of native meadows in the Mountain West and for establishing nutritious forage for livestock and wildlife.

bluegrass, sandberg

Poa secunda (P) Similar to Canby, yet more productive on drier and poorer soils. Found on dry, rocky slopes and high-desert plains from 4,000 to 9,000 ft.

bottlebrush squirrel tail

Sitanion hystrix (P) Native bunchgrass colors Western landscapes with shiny, purple "squirrel tails" that sway easily in the wind. Extremely drought tolerant. Especially exciting in dried flower arrangements. Avoid planting in areas with foot traffic or pets because of the "stickers" that get into socks and fur.

brome, mountain

Bromus marginatus (P) Vigorous, green, leafy bunchgrass esteemed for its forage value and stabilization of disturbed areas up to 8,000 ft. Native throughout Mountain West. Creates beautiful borders and backgrounds with its nodding, purplish panicles.

brome, smooth

Bromus inermis (P) Vigorous pasture grass introduced from Eurasia. Leafy green foliage is esteemed for its forage value as well as stabilization of disturbed areas from Alaska to California. The best natural pasture grass for high valleys above 6,000 ft.

buffalo grass

Buchloe dactyloides (P) Low-growing, warm season, gray-green, sod-forming grass. Our finest offering for meadows or low-maintenance lawns in the southwest. Buffalo grass may not survive above 5,000 ft. and/or north of the 40th parallel.

bulrush, hardstem

Scirpus acutus (P) Grass-like member of the sedge family found throughout the West. Perfect for reclamation and nesting cover along muddy stream banks in standing water up to 2 feet deep. Alkaline tolerant.

canarygrass, reed

Phalaris arundinacea (P) Tall, aggressive, native, sod-forming grass found in poor, clayey, wet locations. While important for reclamation and wildlife cover, its forage value is questionable. Use with caution in open waterways. Reed canary is a noxious weed in some states because seeds spread down stream and offspring chokes irrigation ditches.

fescue, arizona

Festuca arizonica (P) Drought-tolerant, bluish-green bunchgrass, botanically similar to Idaho and sheep fescue. Although native to the southwest, Arizona fescue is useful throughout the West for landscaping with wildflowers, for reclamation and erosion control on difficult sites and for livestock and wildlife forage.

fescue, blue

Festuca ovina var. glauca (P)
Distinctive, tidy, bright-blue, bunches make this one of the most ornamental of the drought-tolerant, cold-country grasses. Blue fescue will survive harsh mountain winters.

fescue, hard

Festuca ovina var. duriscula (P) European introduction similar to our native sheep fescue with smooth blades, firmer and wider. Excellent for Western reclamation projects and erosion control because of excellent root production and neither frost nor elevation seems to limit its adaptation. Although not as deep-green as bluegrass, Durar has been used to produce drought-tolerant, thick, carpet-like lawns.

fescue, hard

Festuca longifolia (P) Another densely tufted, drought-tolerant, bunch grass adapted to the rigors of the West. Gaining favor as a turf grass in water-restricted areas. Serra, a newly selected variety, offers a darker, green color.

fescue, idaho

Festuca idahoensis (P) Finely-textured, densely-tufted, cool season, blue-green bunchgrass. Taller, more robust and slightly more adaptable to northern Rocky Mountain locations. (See sheep fescue below.) Restricted supplies make Idaho fescue more expensive and harder to find than sheep or arizona fescue.

fescue, red

Festuca rubra (P) Soft, finely-textured, dark-green grass. 12-24" tall. Introduced. Lies down into lazy swirls if left unmowed. Perfect for restoring irrigated, meadow areas around new construction or for shady north sides of buildings. Our best shade-tolerant grass.

fescue, sheep

Festuca ovina (P) Finely-textured, densely-tufted, blue-green bunchgrass. 12-18". Native to a wide range of habitats in the Mountain West, from sagebrush plains to sub-alpine meadows. Rugged enough for reclamation of difficult sites yet decorative enough for use in delicate, perennial, wildflower meadows. Prized as forage by deer and elk. Our most popular, low-growing, native grass for re-establishing disturbed sites around new homes.

fescue, tall

Festuca arundinacea (P) Partially drought-tolerant, European introduction with wider blades and greener foliage than the fine-leaved, sheep fescues. Many new varieties of tall fescue are being touted as the perfect water-hungry "blue-grass lawn" substitute, especially the dwarf types which claim less maintenance. As a pasture for livestock, tall fescue is popular, even on dense, poor, salty soils.

grama, blue

Bouteloua gracilis (P) Tough, popular, turf-forming, bunch grass, native to the Great Plains. One of the most drought-tolerant and durable grasses, even when over-grazed. The most popular native grass being used in the Southwest as a lawn substitute for well-drained, medium-density soils.

indian rice grass

Oryzopsis hymenoides (P) Graceful, airy, native bunchgrass that begins with a dark-green color and cures to a beautiful, blond-straw. Indian ricegrass is a beautiful ornamental when added to perennial borders, rock gardens, and even window boxes. It attracts birds and should be used in place of baby's breath to enhance dried flower arrangements. Reclamation projects needing drought-tolerant, erosion controls for dunes and sandy sites often rely on Indian ricegrass.

needlegrass, letterman

Stipa lettermanii (P) Similar to needle and thread grass below yet more adaptable to higher elevations in the Mountain West and less drought tolerant.

needle and thread grass

Stipa comata (P) Distinctive, native, cool season bunchgrass. Green, drying to blond. Widely-distributed western native. Dried, lightly-colored stems and finely-threaded panicles wave in native landscapes beginning mid-summer and make ornamental additions to formal gardens. Detached seeds and long awns resemble small needles with thread.

orchard grass

Dactylis glomerata (P) One of the West's most popular pasture grasses because of its productivity, palatability and tolerance to grazing. However, it is not suitable for alkaline soils. Sod-forming varieties include Latar which is best for high quality forage, Paiute which is drought-tolerant and turns green earlier in the spring and stays green later in the fall, and Potomac which is rust resistant.

prairie junegrass

Koeleria cristata (P) Pretty little native bunchgrass seen brightening early-spring sagebrush slopes. Foliage is important as early forage for livestock and wildlife. Panicles are ornamental additions to spring flower arrangements. Adaptability and ease of establishment make it useful to reclaim difficult sites.

redtop

Agrostis alba (P) One of the most ornamental, colorful sod-forming grasses. Beautiful, dark-green foliage underscores finely-divided, deep-red panicles. Introduced from Europe. Striking enough to complement wildflowers. Also used for pastures and hay.

rye, cereal

Secale cereale (A) Stunning, tall, ornamental seed heads grace this versatile Asian native beginning in late summer. Used by farmers and gardeners as a green-manure, cover crop after summer or early fall crops are harvested and used in reclamation projects for quick cover and erosion control.

ryegrass, annual

Lolium multiflorum (A) This European import is the most popular addition to reclamation mixes that need quick cover for weed control or erosion control. Occasionally added to turf mixes for the same reason. Caution: If allowed to reseed itself, annual rye acts as a perennial, returning year after year.

ryegrass, perennial

Lolium perenne (P) The first meadow grass to be cultivated in Europe as a separate species. Still popular as evidenced by the large number of cultivated varieties available for turf applications. Also useful as forage for livestock and for quick coverage in reclamation projects.

sand dropseed

Sporobolus cryptandrus (P) A native, warm season bunch grass known for its ease in being established and ability to stabilize sand dunes. Although palatable, sand dropseed is considered less desirable than most other available edible forbs.

sedge, beaked

Carex rostrata (P) A common, native, grass-like inhabitant of moist zones found near ponds, meadows, swamps and small streams. Its dense, mat-like sod is often used for wetland reclamation in areas located up to 8,000 ft. in elevation.

sedge, nebraska

Carex nebraskensis (P) Resilient, grass-like member of riparian zones around lakes, stream, ponds and marshes. Equally at home in standing water or on seasonally dry, hot, sandy streambanks. Stiff, blue-green, triangular blades and culms are very ornamental.

timothy

Phleum pratense (P) Although timothy requires irrigation in the arid West, it amazingly adapts to a wide range of soils. Introduced from Eurasia to become at one time, America's most important source for quality hay.

wheatgrass, beardless

Agropyron inerme (P) Long-lived, native, blue-green, bunch grass. Adapts to a wider range of soil and climatic conditions than any of the intermediate wheat grasses. Prolific root production helps it stabilize disturbed, dry slopes.

wheatgrass, bluebunch

Agropyron spicatum (P) Important, long-lived, native, blue-green bunch grass. Distinct bunches of symmetrical spikes, perfect to punctuate rock gardens and native landscapes. Stabilizes poor, thin, dry slopes in all but high elevations. Dries to a beautiful blond.

wheatgrass, crested

Agropyron cristatum (P) One of most useful and beautiful bunchgrasses. Bright-green, drying to beige. Introduced from Russia in early 20th century to control erosion. Used extensively in West for pasture, hay and range improvement. Mature seed heads look like a prehistoric wheat and make irresistible addition to dried arrangements.

wheatgrass, standard crested

Agropyron desertorum (P) Another variation of crested wheatgrass introduced from Russia. Plants are more tolerant of water and cold temperatures and panicles are wider and longer.

wheatgrass, intermediate

Agropyron intermedium (P) Resilient and somewhat drought-tolerant, pasture and reclamation grass. Although it does not form as dense a sod as smooth brome, intermediate wheatgrass makes better hay when mixed with alfalfa, produces more hay during dry spells and is a better ground cover when frozen. Greenar, the most popular variety in the West, is tall, dark-green, disease and cold resistant. Ohae is blue-green, faster, and produces tighter sod. Tegmar is a drought-tolerant, dwarf strain sometimes used for turf.

wheatgrass, siberian

Agropyron sibericum (P) Essentially another crested wheatgrass introduced from Russia. It is slightly smaller and more adapted to drier soils than its two cousins. Panicles are as long as standard crested but slightly thinner.

wheatgrass, streambank

Agropyron riparium (P) Tough, finely-textured, light blue grass. Vigorous sod-forming ability of this mountain native makes it ideal for landscaped meadows, or difficult reclamation sites. Light-blue color contrasts nicely with the reddish bronze of the Bromes.

wheatgrass, thickspike

Agropyron dasystachyum (P) The most widespread, native, long-lived, drought-tolerant, sod-forming grass in the upper Snake River basin of Idaho. Spreads well through rhizomes, ripens early and stays palatable year-round.

wheatgrass, western

Agropyron smithii (P) Similar to thickspike wheatgrass but not as drought-tolerant. It does better in dense soils, however.

wildrye, blue

Elymus glaucus (P) Quick-starting, erosion control bunch grass for new construction sites or steep slopes. Its beautiful blue color is desirable in landscapes and formal gardens.

wildrye, canada

Elymus canadensis (P) Feathery panicles make this reclamation, bunch grass ornamental as well. Establishes itself in short order as an erosion control in somewhat moist soils or sandy streambanks.

wildrye, great basin

Elymus cinereus (P) Tall, leafy, bright-green, bunchgrass. 3-5' tall. Native. Large bunches punctuate sagebrush hillsides throughout West. Useful for wildlife habitat. Add to gardens, patios or planters to form "fountains of grass".

wildrye, mammoth

Elymus giganteus (P) Our favorite pick for sand dune stabilization in mountainous West. Mammoth wildrye comes quickly and remains permanent.

wildrye, russian

Elymus junceus (P) A flood and drought resistant, long-lived, western, native bunch grass. Although relatively difficult to establish, Russian wildrye is green and palatable for an extremely long season from early in the spring to late in the fall.